Why Keys Snap — and Why the Lock Type Changes Everything
Keys fail for a predictable set of reasons: metal fatigue from years of daily use, a lock that has become stiff or misaligned forcing the user to apply extra torque, or a key that was duplicated on worn-out blanks and never quite fit the cut profile correctly. The moment the key shears, the broken tip is usually sitting at exactly the depth where the shear line meets the plug, held in place by spring-loaded pins pressing down on it. Extracting it cleanly — without pushing it further in or scratching the plug — requires thin, hook-tipped extraction picks designed for that precise geometry.
The lock type matters enormously here. A standard door knob lock has a relatively narrow, cylindrical plug with limited working room, but it's generally accessible with basic extraction tools. A mortise lock, by contrast, is a rectangular case set into the edge of the door — common in older Ardsley homes, historic commercial buildings, and multi-family properties throughout Westchester. Mortise lock cylinders are threaded into the case body, which means a broken key can sometimes be difficult to approach from the face of the door alone. Our technicians are specifically experienced with mortise lock hardware: they know when to work from the cylinder face, when a cylinder removal is the smarter play, and how to reassemble the case so the deadbolt and latch operate exactly as they should when the job is done.
